It's a place that sends a shiver down a nation's spine, chills its soul and has a people in absolutely no doubt that history does repeat and that lightning indeed strikes twice, in one place. A place called Katyn. It was in this starkly striking forest that 22,000 of Poland's leading lights were brutally snuffed out. Close by, 70 years later a plane carrying Poland's contemporary leadership slammed into the ground. Old suspicions, entrenched animosity and of course conspiracy theories rise up in the smoke.